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Discover majestic Mustvee at the Vigastatud Luik Bed & Breakfast!
Experience a true Estonian summer at the Vigastatud Luik Bed & Breakfast, one of Mustvee’s most luxurious seaside resorts. The Vigastatud Luik is a historical treasure: it was built more than 200 years ago as a cattle shed on what was then the nobleman Dieter von Grünningen’s estate. Five years after being constructed, during a peasant revolt, Dieter von Grünningen hid in a straw pile located in what is now the kitchen for more than 30 hours before being dragged into what is now one of the guestrooms and brutally beheaded by an angry mob.
The Vigastatud Luik overlooks Lake Peipsi, where our guests can spend their days relaxing to the rhythmic beat of lapping waves. The Vigastatud Luik brings traditional resort relaxation therapy outdoors with an array of mud-related activities offered on our own private mud beach: mud baths, mud-castle building, and mud volleyball are just a few diversions a guest might engage in during his stay at the Vigastatud Luik.
And if our guests need a break from the sun, they can make the ten minute trek into town to explore the sights of historic Mustvee, the jewel of Eastern Estonia. It has been said that life in Mustvee moves at a different pace from the rest of the world, but we think life in Mustvee moves in a completely different direction. Experience true rural Estonia by visiting the store – where wearing a shirt isn’t just optional, it’s frowned upon! – or the park. And for the seasoned adventurer, for whom visiting a store and a park isn’t enough excitement for one day, the store can be visited a second time.
After a full day of mud-beach games and exploring Mustvee, guests can return to the Vigastatud Luik for a good night’s sleep in one of our three themed guestrooms. The first is the Amazon Jungle Suite, so named because the roof leaks. The second is the Paris Suite, which hasn’t been cleaned in years. And the third is the Reykjavik Suite, located next to the chimney. All suites come equipped with a space big enough for sleeping. Sleeping materials — such as blankets, pillows, and a mattress — can be rented from the Vigastatud Luik staff.
And what would a Bed & Breakfast be without breakfast? The Vigastatud Luik offers its guests the opportunity to experience life as it was lived 100 years ago in our authentic period kitchen: no running water or electric appliances, and no food from a supermarket. Guests are invited to harvest eggs or butcher an animal before arriving at the Vigastatud Luik and cook the food
they bring with them the old-fashioned way.
Unfortunately, reservations to the Vigastatud Luik cannot be made by phone or email as we don’t have a phone or computer. To book a room, simply show up and hope we’re not full (note: the Paris Suite has never been occupied).
Comedy Estonia introduces daily deals
Daily deal websites like Groupon have been sprouting up across Europe over the past six months to offer major discounts on products and services. But most daily deal sites offer promotions that span a broad spectrum – many of which don’t appeal to your average expat, who isn’t as interested in a 50% discount on a Brazilian wax as he is in cheap booze. So Comedy Estonia has partnered with its favorite local businesses to launch a daily deal service of its own, targeted specifically at the expat and creep community. Here are your daily deals for Monday, July 18th.
Discount at Expatz Bar: Buy two shots, get a free STD test
50 discounts left out of 2000 offered
Shots at Expatz, the popular foreigner-oriented bar on Suur Kaarja, are expensive enough without having to shell out another €20 for an exhaustive STD exam the next day. This discount entitles the buyer to one free
STD test at the Expatz Medical Center (located in the third stall of the men’s bathroom at Expatz) with the purchase of two shots. The discount is valid until the next time the bearer goes to Expatz, after which the results would be irrelevant anyway.
Discount at Linnahall: 80% off the bottle of Lauaviin at the top of the steps
1 discount left out of 1 offered
There’s a bottle of Lauaviin sitting on the top of the steps of the Linnahall. It looks unopened. The bottle would retail for €6, but the guy wearing six coats and Kleenex boxes for shoes will sell it to you for €2. No refunds.
Discount at Le’Chez Restaurant: You can rifle through the dumpster and eat anything you find for €10
0 discounts left out of 200 offered
Want to eat at Le’Chez, arguably Tallinn’s most exquisite restaurant, but can’t afford anything on the menu? For €10, Le’Chez will allow you to dive into the dumpster behind the restaurant and eat to your stomach’s content. Each night, Le’Chez throws away its patrons’ uneaten portions as well as food that was burned, undercooked, and dropped on the floor. For the discount price of just €10, the only difference between you and a real customer at Le’Chez will be your absence of dignity.
Discount at Dinner in the Air: 10% off dinner if you sit in the seat with no safety harness
10 discounts left out of 150 offered
Dinner in the Air offers diners the opportunity to eat on a platform held 75 meters above the ground by a suspension crane. The experience is perfectly safe, as all of the seats come equipped with a safety harness that has been thoroughly tested. All of the seats except the one that broke two weeks ago, that is. This discount entitles its bearer to eat at Dinner in the Sky for only 90% of the normal price if they sit in that specific seat.
Discount at Tallinn Bussijaam: 20% off Tallinn – Tartu bus ride at 6am on a Saturday
0 discounts left out of 100 offered
Live in Tartu? Want to enjoy a night out in Tallinn without paying for a hotel? Here’s your opportunity: with this 20% discount on a Tallinn – Tartu bus ride at 6am on any Saturday morning in August, you can enjoy Tallinn’s nightlife on a Friday night and be back in Tartu for breakfast on Saturday. You might also make a few friends on the way, if you can speak “drunk” and enjoy the smell of Taco Express and cheap shots.
How to hitchhike to Australia
Most people think that hitchhiking to Australia from Estonia is impossible. “It’s an island on the other side of the world,” they say. “Also, hitchhiking to Australia would take weeks. Spending €1000 on a plane ticket is more practical.”
Nonsense. First of all, every destination on Earth can be reached by hitchhiking. And once commercial space flight becomes viable, hitchhiking will infiltrate the cosmos. No distance is too vast to be hitchhiked. A true traveler’s thumb knows no boundary.
Second, only a moron would ever exchange their money for a plane ticket. To anyone who says it’s easier, faster, and more sensible to pay for travel than it is to hitchhike, I say: open your eyes and look out your window. Do you see cars? Are they moving? Why would you buy a plane ticket if you could simply hop into one of those cars with a complete stranger and ride with them for as long as they’re driving in the general direction you need to move in? It would be foolish.
Given that summer is the time for travel, I decided to dispel the greatest myth plaguing Estonian college students: that Australia can’t be hitchhiked to. So two weeks ago, I packed a bag, stood on the side of the Tallinn to Tartu highway, and stuck my thumb up. This is my story.
Getting to Riga
Any seasoned hitchhiker knows that women get picked up way more often than men. So to save myself some time, I wore a skirt, a wig, and tall, stripper-style high heels while hitchhiking. I reasoned that, while most drivers wouldn’t find me attractive, they’d probably all assume I was desperate and offer me a ride. It worked. Out of 15 people standing on the side of the road near the airport, I was picked up first. The rest were men – wearing men’s clothes. They must have felt really silly as they watched me hold my skirt to climb into an Audi.
Getting to Riga was the first big leg of my journey to Australia. I chose Riga as my first stop because it’s such an awful dump that I wouldn’t want to stick around for any longer than absolutely necessary. The driver I caught a ride with from Tallinn was named Timo. He was heading all the way to Riga and would be staying there for quite a while, judging by how fast he drove by the Estonian highway speed cameras. He pretty quickly picked up on the fact that I’m a man, but he didn’t judge me for wearing women’s clothing, speaking with a terrible, fake Estonian woman’s accent, or reading Marie Claire. Nice guy.
Getting to Kiev
I had Timo drop me off on the side of the highway leading into Riga and wrote “Ukraine” on one of the many pieces of cardboard littering the area. I expected to have to wait a while, but I was picked up in less than 30 minutes by a trucker. He said he was going all the way to Kiev, so I hopped aboard his big rig. The driver’s name was Igor and he was evasive when I asked him what he was hauling, which made me a little nervous. When we stopped at a truck stop 8 hours later, sores has broken out on my ankles and patches of hair were falling out of my scalp. “Still better than paying for a plane ticket!,” I thought as I made a travel pillow by stuffing my discarded hair into a paper bag.
The drive to Kiev was pleasantly uneventful. Igor was an entertaining driver, cursing in a vaguely Slavic-sounding language whenever he got cut off. And I think Igor enjoyed my company, too. He said I was his favorite person to watch sleep.
Getting to Tehran
I said my goodbyes to Igor on the outskirts of Kiev and made a new sign: “Tehran”. I began to lose faith in my mission as hundreds, if not thousands of trucks passed me over the course of what felt like a century. Many times, a truck would slow down as it approached only to throw discarded soda bottles or McDonald’s wrappers at me and speed up again.
Finally, after more than 14 hours on the side of the road, a trucker stopped and offered me a ride. He worked for a military contractor: he couldn’t take me to Tehran, he said, but he could give me a ride to Mosul, Iraq. I accepted
his offer and hopped in the cab, thinking it’d be easy to find a ride to Tehran from Mosul.
It was a long three day drive to Iraq, and Mosul had a much more pronounced “war zone vibe” than I had anticipated. The military contractor dropped me off on the outskirts of town and I wrote “Tehran” on a rock I pulled from the ruins of what looked like a school. I waited for hours in the sweltering heat before seeing a single car, and when one finally did approach it sped up and tried to hit me. I was able to dive out of the way in time, but the incident didn’t leave me very optimistic about my chances of getting to Australia.
Three days later, a military convoy heading to Afghanistan stopped and offered to drive me to Tehran. And two days after that, I was writing a new sign – “Calcutta” – from the side of a highway in Iran. To think that I almost caved in and bought a plane ticket while sleeping under a bullet-riddled piece of iron siding in Mosul!
Getting to Calcutta
NOTHING INTERESTING HAPPENED ON THIS PART OF THE JOURNEY. IT WAS COMPLETELY UNEVENTFUL AND THERE’S NO USE IN DESCRIBING ANY PORTION OF THIS LEG OF THE JOURNEY IN DETAIL. SUFFICE TO SAY THAT IT WAS PLEASANT AND QUIET.
Getting to Hong Kong
After my stitches healed and I was able to eat solid foods again, I posted myself on the side of the highway outside of Calcutta and drew my next sign: “Hong Kong”. A driver named Hintao picked me up after only a few minutes and offered to take me all the way to the port of Hong Kong, where he was dropping off some shipping containers filled with toxic wastewater. I asked him where that toxic wastewater was being shipped to and almost jumped out of my seat in excitement when he responded: Sydney, Australia! Jackpot!

"We could not calculate directions between Kolkata, West Bengal, India and Hong Kong Island, Hong Kong."
I struck a deal with Hintao: I’d drive the truck the rest of the way to Hong Kong if he’d let me stow myself in the shipping container and ride – for free – to Sydney. He agreed, and I climbed behind the steering wheel. Maneuvering a massive truck was harder than I thought: I took a turn too quickly at one point and the cargo hit the truck’s loading door so hard that it burst open, spilling six barrels of wastewater into a nearby stream. Hintao and I had a good laugh at my driving skills as we lit the stream on fire to burn off the wastewater and fled the scene.
Getting to Sydney
After driving together for four days, Hintao and I had developed a strong friendship. He didn’t want me to leave for Sydney: he thought we should open our own trucking business together. I had to decline his offer, and Hintao and I exchanged emotional goodbyes as he locked me into a shipping container before driving to the port. The next six days are a blur, as the inside of the shipping container was pitch black and the fumes from the wastewater caused me to pass out frequently. But I very vividly remember the elation I felt when the door to the shipping container was opened and the bright Australian sun warmed my face. Unfortunately, I was arrested on the spot by the Australian port authority and spent the next two weeks being interrogated every day by Australia’s version of homeland security.
Once the Australian authorities deemed that I was not a terrorist but rather an exceptionally thrifty idiot, they released me – and I was free to enjoy Australia with the knowledge that I didn’t pay a single cent for transportation to get there. By this point, however, my hair had completely fallen out and I had developed a severe case of rickets, so I wasn’t able to do much sightseeing. I did, however, manage to send Sydney, Australia postcards to both Igor and Hintao before starting my journey back home. But that adventure will have to wait for another article – partly because it’s rife with interesting anecdotes, and partly because I’m barred from discussing it publicly by the Malaysian government.
But the absolute best part about my trip to Australia – the thing that put a smile on my face each of the four mornings I spent there before having to leave – was that I got there for free. I overheard some tourists talking about their flight one day in a park. “Fools,” I thought I as I applied rubbing alcohol to the open sores on my ankles. “Don’t they realize that they could have hitchhiked for free?“
Pärnu Shore, Episode Two: All’s fair in love and shore
Pärnu Shore:
- Meet the cast of Pärnu Shore
- Pärnu Shore, Episode One: A rullnokk’s work is never done
- Pärnu Shore, Episode Two: All’s fair in love and shore
- Pärnu Shore, Episode Three: Between a rullnokk and a hard place
- Pärnu Shore, Season Finale: We’ll always have the shore
Heleen and Priit wake up together in the mitte-magamise magamistuba. They agree to not tell the other roommates that they have hooked up. Priit asks if he can keep Heleen’s thong; Heleen agrees and the two go back to their respective rooms.
All of the roommates begin to wake up, and Martin shows everyone how to make a Võru omelet: he cracks two eggs on his forehead, drinks the insides out of a glass, and chases it with a slice of bread. Kevin, still angry at Martin, shows the roommates how to make a Tartu milkshake: he pours half a bag of kohupiim into a vodka bottle and finishes it in one pull.
Timo, the roommates’ boss, calls as the roommates are eating breakfast (and Kevin is vomiting violently in the bathroom). Their jobs at Rullnokk’s start today, and the first two people scheduled are Jaanika and Priit. As Jaanika and Priit prepare for work, the rest of the roommates decide to spend the day at the beach.
On the way to Rullnokk’s, Priit confesses to Jaanika that he and Heleen slept together the night before. Jaanika isn’t surprised. She tells Priit that she thinks Kevin is the most attractive rullnokk she’s ever seen but is afraid to share her feelings with him. Priit, claiming to be the most respected relationship expert among his group of friends, advises Jaanika to never reveal her feelings to Kevin and simply hope that the two hook up while drunk. Jaanika, amazed by Priit’s wisdom, thanks him profusely and promises to do just that.
Meanwhile, at the beach, Kevin and Martin get into a fierce argument over who between them is the most tan. Kevin claims that he has gone to the tanning salon five times per week since he was 12 years old; Martin insists that he’s tanner because he only wears a shirt when he has to go to court. Kevin asks Riina and Heleen to judge, and Martin and Kevin stand back-to-back without shirts on. Not wanting to upset anyone, Heleen claims that the two are equally tan. Riina votes for Martin, which infuriates Kevin. Out of anger, Kevin calls Riina pale – the worst insult in rullnokk culture. Riina runs away crying, but Martin and Kevin begin arguing over who can drink more beers and don’t notice.
Back at Rullnokk’s, Priit impresses Tarmo with his ability to stuff sauce into burgers. Jaanika however has received complaints from customers about her attitude and the fact that six of her fake nails have fallen off into people’s food. Tarmo brings Jaanika into his office and tells her that Rullnokk’s has a reputation as a family restaurant and that she needs to be much friendlier with customers. Jaanika agrees, but 15 minutes later her ex-boyfriend shows up at the restaurant and the two erupt into a screaming match. Tarmo has no other choice but to send Jaanika home for the day.
At the beach, Heleen manages to convince Riina that she’s not pale and the two leave the beach to go to a bar in town called Shüüters; Heleen heard about an event there on the radio and thinks a change of scenery will cheer Riina up. The girls try to ask Martin and Kevin to join, but they’re so engrossed in a beer-drinking arm-wrestling competition that they don’t notice.
On her walk home, Jaanika spots the ex-boyfriend she argued with at work and follows him into a bar with the intention of apologizing. When she gets inside, she notices that he’s sitting with a group of three men – all of whom she has dated in the past. Looking around, she notices that she has dated many of the men in the bar. She then spots a banner hanging behind the bar: “Third Annual Jaanika Sucks Festival”. Horrified, Jaanika turns to leave and sees Heleen and Riina entering the front door. She asks the two of them to help her slip out without being seen by anyone.
The three rush into the women’s bathroom and concoct a scheme: Heleen and Riina dress up like
Jaanika so that no one can identify the true Jaanika. The three leave the bathroom, and Jaanika is immediately recognized by everyone in the room given that the three girls look absolutely nothing alike. Jaanika is forced to make a walk of shame through the bar to the exit while being booed and hissed at by nearly 100 of her ex-boyfriends.
Pärnu Shore, Episode One: A rullnokk’s work is never done
Pärnu Shore:
- Meet the cast of Pärnu Shore
- Pärnu Shore, Episode One: A rullnokk’s work is never done
- Pärnu Shore, Episode Two: All’s fair in love and shore
- Pärnu Shore, Episode Three: Between a rullnokk and a hard place
- Pärnu Shore, Season Finale: We’ll always have the shore
The roommates begin arriving at the Pärnu Shore house, a former toxic chemicals storage facility overlooking the beach that has been converted into a 3-bedroom mansion. Two of the bedrooms hold three beds, and the last bedroom holds one bed. The producers of Pärnu Shore named the one-bed bedroom the mitte-magamise magamistuba.
Jaanika arrives first and moves her bags into the bedroom nearest the sauna — after making sure that the distance between the two rooms is crawl-able. Priit arrives second and immediately investigates the refrigerator: the producers have stocked it with liquor and beer. Priit and Jaanika begin drinking and pass out on the kitchen floor.
Martin arrives third and is disappointed that the house doesn’t include a gym or a tanning bed, but he is happy to have fewer than 12 roommates for the first time in his life. He drops his bag onto his bed and starts to wake up Priit and Jaanika but is distracted by a bottle of vodka. He passes out next to the other two after taking nine shots.
Heleen and Riina arrive next, having both taken the same bus from Tallinn. Heleen becomes embarrassed when she sees the pile of passed-out bodies on the floor of the kitchen: she hooked up with Priit a few months ago while visiting friends in Tartu. She and Riina hatch a plan to hide her true identity from Priit – Heleen will dye her hair brown and call herself Piret. Heleen and Riina put their bags in the room with Martin’s things and leave the house to buy hair dye.
Kevin arrives last. He puts his bags in the room with Priit’s things and takes a tour of the house. He finds Jaanika, Priit, and Martin passed out in the kitchen. He considers waking them up but concludes that he’ll have more vodka to himself if they remain sleeping. He pours half of a bottle of Viru Valge into his energy drink and leaves the house to explore the city.
Heleen and Riina return to the house and begin dying Heleen’s hair. After finishing, they decide to celebrate with some drinks and finish an entire bottle of Viru Valge. They quickly pass out on top of the rullnokk pile in the kitchen.
Hours later, Kevin comes back to the house with a woman he met in a nightclub. They retire to the mitte-magamise magamistuba, and the woman leaves again after only ten minutes. Kevin goes to the kitchen and is able to wake up all of the roommates except Heleen and Priit. The four roommates leave for a nightclub — Klubi Suhkur. Heleen and Priit wake up at the same time an hour later, and Heleen introduces herself to Priit as Piret. The two start drinking, and, after an hour, retire to the mitte-magamise magamistuba together.
At the nightclub, Jaanika and Riina find themselves engaged in deep conversation about fake nail extensions and form a quick friendship. Kevin and Martin argue intensely at the bar after Martin orders a round of Saku, and the two have to be pulled apart by the nightclub’s security. The four roommates decide to leave, and the tension between Kevin and Martin is overwhelming on the walk home. Jaanika and Riina stay up until 6am drinking ciders, but Kevin and Martin both immediately go to sleep.
The next morning, Heleen (as Piret) and Priit sneak quietly from the mitte-magamise magamistuba into their own bedrooms. Heleen wakes Riina up and confides in her about the previous night. The pair agree that the embarrassment of having hooked up with Priit will make the summer awkward, so they hatch a new plan: they’ll dye Heleen’s hair back to blonde, call her Maris, and tell the roommates that Maris is replacing Piret, who decided to move to the suburbs of Helsinki to find a job. Riina and Heleen leave the house to buy a hair dying kit.
Kevin is awoken by a ringing phone in the living room: their new boss, Timo, wants to introduce them to their summer jobs in 15 minutes. The roommates will be working at a fast-food restaurant near the beach called Rullnokk’s. Kevin wakes the other roommates up, and they all leave for Rullnokk’s without Heleen and Riina.
The roommates arrive at Rullnokk’s and meet Timo. Jaanika is unenthusiastic about working in a fast-food restaurant for the summer and doesn’t pay attention as Timo instructs the roommates on the use of the equipment. When making a sample milkshake, Jaanika uses sour cream instead of milk. Martin drinks it but doesn’t notice the difference.
Heleen and Riina return to the house and dye Heleen’s hair. They once again celebrate a job well done with drinks and once again pass out on the kitchen floor. When the roommates return from their training at work, they wake up Heleen and Riina, and Heleen introduces herself to the roommates as Maris, explaining that Piret decided to leave the house. The roommates begin drinking together. Martin and Kevin once again fight and must be physically separated by Priit. Kevin goes outside to calm down, and Jaanika follows him. Martin goes to his room to do the same and is followed by Riina. Left alone in the kitchen, Priit and Maris begin talking and quickly relocate to the mitte-magamise magamistuba. Maris admits to Priit that she is actually Piret, who was actually Heleen. Priit admits that he doesn’t recognize either of those names, and the two become intimate.
Diary from my first Jaanipäev
I moved to Estonia nearly two years ago, on June 23rd, 2009. Before arriving, I made plans to spend my first few days in the country with a friend, Priit, who told me that we’d be celebrating something called Jaanipäev, the Estonian observation of the summer solstice. I recently found this diary from that day in my closet.
9:15am
Arrived in Tallinn – the airport is pretty small. I took a taxi to the center. 500 EEK for the ride seems pretty reasonable!
9:35am
I’m waiting for Priit at something called Viru Gate. I’m surprised to see a McDonald’s next to such historical buildings. Also, there are a lot of liquor stores and strip clubs near here.
Hopefully Priit gets here soon so we can start driving to the Jaanipäev celebration. The town we’re traveling to is called Mustla. Sounds exciting!
10:00am
When Priit said he had found us a ride, apparently he meant that we’re hitchhiking. I’m standing on the side of the road with Priit. Three groups of girls have been picked up since we got here, but no one has even slowed down for us.
11:30am
Still waiting.
12:20pm
Finally got picked up by an old couple. Their Lada is pretty small, and apparently this is a three hour drive.
1:00pm
We stopped in some small town to have lunch. The only thing the restaurant serves is fish. I ate one bite and nearly puked. The old woman finished my plate.
4:45pm
Finally made it to Mustla. The three hour drive turned into a four hour drive because we had to stop three different times to drop off knick-knacks for relatives of the old woman.
5:45pm
We’re apparently not staying in Mustla but in a “village” an hour away. From what I can tell, the village is just one cabin.
6:00pm
The guy that owns the cabin is a friend of Priit’s. His name is also Priit, which has gotten confusing. I think several other guys here are named Priit.
The Priits got together and lit a massive bonfire. Hopefully the fire will keep some of these mosquitoes away.
6:20pm
People have started jumping over the fire for some reason. It doesn’t seem like such a good idea given how much beer everyone is drinking.
6:45pm
Priit offered me some barbeque called Šašlõkk. When I accepted he reached his hand into a giant bucket full of slimy water and pulled out some meat.
7:55pm
There’s a massive pile of empty cans of something called A. Le Coq next to the bonfire. It’s about half as tall as the fire.
8:30pm
I tried my first A. Le Coq – I guess it’s some sort of Belgian beer. Not bad, but probably not something I’d drink again.
Hopefully I can try a local Estonian beer soon!
9:10pm
One of the Priits told me that it’s a tradition to search for a fern flower
in the woods. I don’t know what a fern looks like, but I searched for one anyway. I ended up falling into a poison ivy bush.
9:25pm
The fire is not keeping the mosquitoes away. Bug spray isn’t working, either.
The mosquito bites combined with the poison ivy must be making me hallucinate – I just saw a guy riding a massive, standing swing back and forth.
10:30pm
I’m getting pretty tired. Hopefully the sun will set soon so that I can get some sleep.
11:15pm
The A. Le Coq can pile is now much, much taller than the fire.
12:05am
One of the Priits got a bottle of vodka from the cabin and now people are drinking it straight from the bottle. It’s called Laua Viin and it looks pretty cheap. I’d better not drink any.
I’ll stick to this other beer someone gave me – it’s called Saku and doesn’t look like it’ll give a very bad hangover.
12:25am
One of the Priits dove over the fire headfirst into the A. Le Coq can pile. Now they’re scattered everywhere.
12:40am
I’m out of Saku so I guess I have no choice but to drink Laua Viin. Someone told me that the name translates to “Table Vodka”. How bad could it be?
1:05am
I drank two shots of Laua Viin and I think I’m hallucinating again. It’s 1am and the sun is still up.
2:00am
I passed out for a while on top of the A. Le Coq can pile. I saw a mosquito bite Priit’s arm. It drank Priit’s blood for about 3 seconds and then started puking. I guess it got drunk.
2:30am
The party is still going strong, although most people are pretty drunk. I asked Priit what time Jaanipäev usually ends. He said Sunday.
9:10am
I covered myself in dirt so mosquitoes couldn’t bite me and fell asleep. The party is still going. The A. Le Coq can pile is now as tall as the cabin.
Choose your own adventure: A summer night in Tallinn
Foreigners in Estonia speak out
Interest in foreigners living in Estonia piqued over the last few weeks, as information about the bureaucratic visa application process came to light and a Cameroonian student in Tartu quit his PhD program after being beaten on three separate occasions in one month.
Yet despite the bureaucratic gauntlet foreigners must navigate to get to Estonia and the threat they face of being beaten once a week until they leave, I hear plenty of English being spoken in the streets of Tallinn every day. There are obviously benefits to coming to Estonia as a foreigner given how many of them are here, and those benefits are often ignored by the media in favor of more sensationalistic examples of racism and xenophobia.
So I decided to take to the streets and ask real foreigners who live here what exactly about Estonia they love. I interviewed four random foreigners that I met on a stroll through Old Town one day; here are their thoughts.
What made you come to Estonia?
Giovanni from Italy
I moved to Estonia three years ago from Milan. I considered moving to California but chose Estonia instead. This way I get to live in two cities: Tallinn during the day and Hollywood at night! It’s great!
Rory from Australia
Tony from the United Kingdom
Estonia’s a great place to live. Back where I’m from, in Liverpool, everyone’s got a nickname. Mine was Plungerboy because I was a plumber. My mate John’s nickname was Toiletking; he was a plumber, too. Our other mate Adam was nicknamed Draino – he liked to use Draino when he plunged toilets. And my nextdoor neighbor’s nickname was Porcelain Pete. He was also a plumber. But here, the only nickname I go by is “välismaalt mees” – dunno what it means, but it sounds pretty slick.
Rick from the USA
Well, first of all, I’m from New York City. Ever heard of it? Ha! Of course you have. I came to Estonia because I smelled money here – I’m in the imports business. Now I’m importing all sorts of shoe-repair and foot-related stuff from the US and selling it at twice the price. Making a killing. New York City taught me how to hustle and make money. Money, money, money. I’m from New York City.
What was the visa process like for you? How long did it take?
Giovanni from Italy
I did not need a visa to come to Estonia. All I had to do to get to Estonia was walk downstairs, ask my mom for some money to buy a plane ticket, and then ask her to drive me to the airport! Next month, for my 40th birthday, she’ll send me more money, so I don’t even need to get a job!
Rory from Australia
Yeah, the old visa was a pain, which is why I skipped that bit. I figure no one is going to throw an Ozzie out, especially since I’ve got me a job cleaning the bathroom at the hostel I’ve been staying at for the past eight months. Why give the heave-ho to a productive member of society?
Tony from the United Kingdom
Visa? Let me tell you something about old Plungerboy: he’s got a British passport! Got that? B-R-I-T-I-S-H passport! That means I can travel anywhere I please, because everyone loves a British guy coming to visit! I’m tossing around pounds like they’re candy because everything is cheap to a Brit! You know how much I paid for these shoes? 22 quid! That’s like a year’s wage in Eastern Europe! Back in Liverpool, you know how much I was making? 12,000 pounds a year! That’s a king’s ransom! Once I figure out what the conversion rate is, I’m gonna throw a massive party with the 800 pounds I brought over here to live on for a year. You’re invited!
Rick from the United States
Back in New York City we have a saying. Anyway, I don’t have a visa. I’m an entrepreneur, remember? In imports? I’m from New York? Hello? I used to sell cell phones outside Central Park. That’s in New York; perhaps you’ve heard of it? Anyway, I was selling cell phones and got the idea to come here on a whim. Where am I supposed to get the time to apply for a visa? I’m too busy setting up meetings with suppliers. You know what I’m importing next month? Shoe polishing kits! You can take a picture with me right now if you want. Nope, too late. You waited too long; the offer is revoked.
Have you learned any Estonian? How easy do you find communicating with Estonians?
Giovanni from Italy
Communicating is so easy! I usually just move my hips like this, then put my hands here. Sometimes I’ll point to the bar and motion like I’m taking a sip of a drink to see if she wants one. Sometimes that’s not even needed – I’ll just bring her to the dance floor and there’s no need to communicate at all! The only problem I’ve found with communicating in Estonia is that the music is so loud sometimes. It makes it hard to introduce myself. But then, I am not such a big verbal communicator, if you know what I mean!
Rory from Australia
I haven’t really bothered to learn Estonian since most of the guests in the hostel are from other countries in Europe, and me boss is German. I left the hostel once about a week ago and everyone I talked to seemed to speak pretty good English, so no worries. Actually even most native English speakers don’t understand what I’m saying half the time so I guess I can’t be too fussy.
Tony from the United Kingdom
Learn Estonian? As if the Plungerboy needs to know any language other than the Queen’s English. I’m doing everyone here a favor by coming to Estonia and teaching them the proper way to speak English goodly. You people are lucky I don’t charge you for tutoring just for saying hello! The only times I’ve had trouble communicating are when I stayed in Nimeta bar a little too long and couldn’t string a sentence together.
Rick from the United States
I don’t have any problems communicating because I speak the universal language – money. There is no language barrier when you’re doing big deals and running your own import business. People adjust to me, they learn my language so they can buy my imported shoelaces and anti-fungal creams. I’m pretty much the biggest player on the Estonian gray-market foot care scene. You think I’m bending over backwards to learn some other peoples’ language? Get real.
Do you think that Estonia is a dangerous place for foreigners? Do you ever feel threatened here?
Giovanni from Italy
As a foreigner, I do sometimes worry for my safety – the threat of STDs is very real in Tallinn, especially in the nightclubs I go to, and there’s no way of knowing if the hordes of women who throw themselves at me night after night are disease-free. I also worry about tripping on the cobblestones while walking home drunk. In my opinion, Estonia is a very dangerous place and one must be vigilant to stay safe!
Rory from Australia
I don’t think Estonia is dangerous. But truth be told, I rarely leave the hostel, and when I do it’s just to pick up some instant-cook noodles at the 24-hour grocery store. I guess the biggest danger in my eyes is starving to death because I’m too lazy to make the trip to the grocery store. Or suffocating because I forgot to breathe.
Tony from the United Kingdom
Do you honestly think the Plungerboy has any fears? I’ve met some tough guys in bars in Tallinn, guys who didn’t like foreigners, and I took every single one of them down with a pint glass to the head. I’ve got a scar on my neck from when my brother bet me that I couldn’t juggle three live chainsaws after drinking all day. I proved him right. But the point is, nothing scares me, especially not the foreigner-haters.
Rick from the United States
Maybe I didn’t make myself clear – I am from New York City. I grew up fighting off pedophiles on my walk to school and knifing kids for cutting in front of me in the lunch line. When I’m not doing big toenail clipper importing deals, I’m in the boxing gym beating on a punching bag or in Shooters talking girls out of their pants. I don’t have time to be scared. And if I did, I’d somehow manage to sell that emotion and make money.
How do you feel about anti-foreigner sentiment in Estonia?
Giovanni from Italy
I don’t understand it! What’s not to like about foreigners like me: we come to your town and treat it like a theme park! Who doesn’t like theme parks! A few weeks ago some old lady made a rude remark to me in the town while I was trying to seduce her granddaughter, so I screamed “WHY DON’T YOU LIKE ME?” in English. She didn’t seem to understand, so I screamed it again and again, each time louder than the last to help her grasp what I was saying. Then I did the whole thing again in Italian. I go to such great lengths to fit in, and still I am disliked!
Rory from Perth, Australia
I guess the anti-foreigner sentiment is pretty bad. I don’t get much of it in the hostel though, since everyone is a foreigner. In fact, I don’t believe I know any Estonians who dislike foreigners. But then again, I don’t know any Estonian people. The people that come through the hostel seem nice.
Tony from the United Kingdom
When I was living in Liverpool, there was nothing that I hated more than some slimy immigrant walking through the town like he owned the place. Which is why I thought people here in Estonia would love me: I’m no immigrant, I’m English! But for whatever reason they’re starting to lash out against us. Makes no sense to me. I give something back each time I leave the house: teaching the general public manners, culture, English language, fashion, physical fitness, hair care, all by just allowing them to look at me. And what thanks do I get? Literally none! Bunch of ingrates in this country.
Rick from the United States
To be honest, if I was an Estonian, I wouldn’t want me here either. I’m killing it with foot-care imports and thinking about moving up to the big time: luggage imports. After that it’s rubber imports, and after that it’s pet care imports, and after that I’m president of the country. So sure, hate me – it only makes me hungrier for the only meal that can fill my stomach. Money.
NB! Discounted pre-sale tickets to this month’s Stand-up Comedy with Louis and Eric end on June 9th! Get yours now!
Introducing the cast of Pärnu Shore
Pärnu Shore:
- Meet the cast of Pärnu Shore
- Pärnu Shore, Episode One: A rullnokk’s work is never done
- Pärnu Shore, Episode Two: All’s fair in love and shore
- Pärnu Shore, Episode Three: Between a rullnokk and a hard place
- Pärnu Shore, Season Finale: We’ll always have the shore
MTV’s new UK-based Jersey Shore spin-off, Geordie Shore, premiered last Tuesday. But MTV is currently filming another Jersey Shore spin-off: Pärnu Shore, based in Estonia’s summer capital. The cast of Pärnu Shore was selected months ago from thousands of submissions; the series is filming this summer and will air in September.
MTV chose Pärnu as the setting of its next reality series because of its similarity with the previous locations. Rullnokk culture is Guido culture with the letters ä, ü, ö, and õ: the guys are buff, steroid-injected hooligans with the singular objective of sleeping with anything that moves, and the girls are human-shaped collections of fake-tanned silicon with the singular objective of sleeping with anything that moves.
Like Jersey Shore and Geordie Shore, the cast of Pärnu Shore will have to spend the summer working – in a hamburger stand near the beach called Rullnokk’s. And they’ll also be expected to spend the majority of their time partying in Pärnu’s nightclubs and bars in true rullnokk fashion: sneaking off to the bathroom to snip home-made cocktails while wearing a pair of jeans that cost a month’s salary.
Meet the cast of Pärnu Shore:
Hometown: Tartu
Age: 26
Tagline: “If rullnokk was a cologne, I’d be wearing a bottle of it that I bought on the Tallinn-Helsinki ferry.”
Although he has lived in Tartu his entire life, Priit is proud of the fact that he has never stepped foot within 200 meters of Tartu Ülikool. Priit hates the nerds and hippies he has to deal with in Tartu, but what bothers him the most about his town are the foreign students, because he often has to wait behind them at the McDonald’s drive-through when they go there on foot.
Priit claims that Pärnu Shore wouldn’t be authentic without him as a cast member because he’s the biggest rullnokk in Estonia: he once listened to the same trance song on repeat for six straight days – while skipping work.
Hometown: Viljandi
Age: 22
Tagline: “If I was president of Estonia, I’d deport everyone who isn’t buff, bronzed, and braindead.”
Jaanika grew up in Viljandi but moved to Tallinn when she was 18 because going clubbing every night in a town that only has one club got repetitive. She works in a tanning salon, which she considers the best job on Earth: not only does she get an employee discount, but she spends her entire day talking exclusively to people with tans. Jaanika enrolled at Tallinn University for a semester but was expelled when her fake tan rubbed off on a number of books in the library, ruining them. Luckily, no student since then has requested The Rullnokk’s Guide to Eyebrow Sculpting.
Jaanika hopes to become famous across Estonia after appearing on Pärnu Shore, which she thinks will make it easier to launch her children’s clothing line: Rullnokk Kids. Jaanika thinks that today’s youth are not adopting rullnokk culture early enough, proven by the fact that her little brother’s toy cars are all dump-trucks and racecars, not 80’s-model BMWs.
Hometown: Tartu
Age: 28
Tagline: “I’m the tan man in the white van.”
Kevin grew up in Tartu but spends most of his time now in Helsinki, where he works as a bricklayer. Kevin’s biggest claim to fame is that he was the guy holding the camera in the Mis sul viga on? video. Kevin insists that his record-breaking consumption of 62 pints on the Helsinki – Tallinn ferry should qualify him as the world’s biggest rullnokk, but Priit disagrees – because he was coming from work, not going to work.
Kevin predicts that he’ll bring home more women than the other male roommates combined while in the Pärnu Shore house. He attributes his success with women to his muscular physique, which he sculpts constantly in the gym. Kevin says that if he’s not working, drinking in a parking lot, or eating sauce-soaked hamburgers from a kiosk, he’s in the gym pumping iron.
Hometown: Tallinn
Age: 21
Tagline: “I look like an Oompa-loompa and a Viking had a baby.”
Helen is the self-proclaimed Queen of Tallinn, spending five nights a week in clubs and the other two in the back seats of old German luxury cars. Heleen, a mother of two, thinks spending a summer in the Pärnu Shore house will teach her how to be a better mother — because she’ll be nursing a hangover the entire time.
Heleen has spent the last 10 summers in Pärnu and knows the clubbing scene from top to bottom. She claims that a great Pärnu night always starts with six ciders and ends sometime the next week. As the roommate who has spent the most time in Pärnu, Heleen is looking forward to showing the rest of the cast what she calls the Rullnokk Routine: PPP (päevitamine, burksi söömine, ja pihku löömine).
Hometown: Võru
Age: 28
Tagline: “If I knew how to read, I’d look up rullnokk in the dictionary and read my biography.”
Martin claims that only Võru produces true rullnokks – he talks about this theory in length in his best-selling book, Minu Võru. Martin spends all of his free time – of which he has a lot, being unemployed – in the gym. His life’s goal is to grow his shoulders so large that he can’t turn his head.
Martin thinks he belongs in the Pärnu Shore house because rullnokk culture has deviated from its roots, and he wants to show the rest of the country how a true rullnokk behaves. Martin says he’s disgusted with the way so-called rullnokks act in clubs: drinking fancy drinks (instead of chugging vodka from the bottle), talking to friends (instead of beating them up), and leaving when the lights come on (instead of passing out hours earlier). Martin vows that he will be the new face of rullnokk culture in Estonia after Pärnu Shore airs, which is ironic because he requires plastic surgery every six months as a result of fighting.
Hometown: Tallinn
Age: 20
Tagline: “The only thing better than drinking cider all night is drinking cider all day.”
Riina has never spent a summer in Pärnu and worries that the lack of RyanAir connections to the small town will mean she might actually have to buy her own drinks. But while Riina may not be as optimistic about the summer as the rest of the roommates, she’s certain that viewers will consider her the biggest rullnokk in the house. She learned everything she knows about rullnokk culture from her older brother, who once made the drive from Tallinn to Tartu in 45 minutes – and then turned around after buying a hamburger.
Riina can be found most nights in some of the sleaziest bars in Tallinn talking to some of the sleaziest men in Europe. She loves going out and being the center of attention, which isn’t hard considering she wears the same skirts she used to dress her dolls with. Riina hopes the male roommates are good-looking and buff, otherwise she claims she won’t even learn their names.
Five ways Estonia can win Eurovision in 2012
I loved Getter Jaani’s performance at the Eurovision final in Düsseldorf last weekend. And as disappointing as her 24th-place, 44-point finish was, I’m glad that Estonia finally got a wake-up call: if it wants to compete seriously in Eurovision, it has to make some changes to the way it approaches the contest.
Greece, Ireland, Moldova, and Bosnia and Herzegovina all have two things in common: 1) they trounced Estonia in Eurovision, and 2) they’re burnt-out hellscapes that are losing population faster than a Finnish ferry in port. And when natives of those countries reach foreign soil, the first thing they do is vote for the homeland in Eurovision. It’s some sort of immigrant guilt: just because someone would rather clean
pint glasses in a soon-to-be-condemned bar in East London than perform brain surgery in their hometown, it doesn’t mean they’re not proud of their roots.
To be a contender in next year’s Eurovision, Estonia needs to send people to other European countries immediately. Start with recent college grads, since they’re the most likely to watch Eurovision: graduates of Tartu Ülikool should have a one-way RyanAir ticket stapled to their diplomas, with instructions to go forth and vote! Or, at the very least, to go forth and try to not embarrass Estonia by getting caught on camera saying the same thing over and over again while drunk.
Start a music factory
The best way to ensure that a Eurovision song does well is to test it heavily before the contest. Do people enjoy listening to it? Would they vote for it? Does it get stuck in their heads?
This is why Estonia should start a music factory. A music factory is a production studio that churns out hundreds of songs per month by different artists, puts them on the internet, and hopes they go viral. A music factory created Rebecca Black.
Estonia should turn its IT talent toward music production. If a music factory opened up in the Tehnopol, it could crank out a hit a day until something got popular on YouTube. Call each song a “start up” and engineers would line up to work on them, hoping to cash in on the next big thing.
There’s only one problem: Rebecca Black is 14 and sings about partying, and the partying that 14-year-olds do in Estonia is pretty much illegal in the rest of the world.
Submit an Old Lady
I think Europe was making a statement when it ranked Getter Jaani 24th in Eurovision: despite her talent, voting for an 18-year-old is kind of creepy. Perhaps Europeans found the process of using a phone to select a young girl unsettling.
If 18-year-old girls do exceptionally poorly at Eurovision, then old ladies must do exceptionally well: next year, Estonia should submit an 81-year-old to perform.
While an old lady won’t have the energy to bounce across the stage as Getter Jaani did, she will be able to sing with authority about topics that people find fascinating: diabetes, false teeth, chronic back and hip pain, the 1950s, adult diapers, frequent napping, elderly discounts, going to bed at 7pm, and hating everything. Rockefeller Street is about a street that doesn’t exist anywhere in the world; imagine listening to My Hip Replacement Surgery by Gaani Jetter. I don’t think we even need to vote in 2012: we already have a winner!
Submit a British Stag Party
The UK’s Blue took 11th place in Eurovision with 100 points. Since there’s no shortage of British men slithering throughout Tallinn’s Old Town wearing matching outfits, why not recruit a stag party to perform for Estonia next year?
Submitting a stag party to Eurovision 2012 would accomplish two very important things. The first is that it would reduce creep tourism to Estonia by associating the country with fat, drunken truck drivers named Liam and not beautiful, English-speaking 18-year-olds. And the second is that it would temporarily remove a stag party from Estonia.
Recruit Matt Damon
Moldova’s 2011 Eurovision performance was the most clichéd thing I’ve ever seen: a bunch of weirdos from a weird country dancing like clowns, playing weird instruments, wearing weird cones on their heads, and speaking weird, choppy English with weird accents. The only thing missing from the act was a monkey playing cymbals.
And yet, Moldova finished in 12th place with 97 points – which proves that the rest of Europe loves pointing and laughing at Eastern European stereotypes. Estonia should capitalize on that for next year’s Eurovision contest by recruiting Matt Damon, who performed the song Scottie Doesn’t Know in the most stereotype-laden movie ever filmed: Eurotrip.
Estonia should give the people of Europe what they want: someone to feel superior to. As a stand-up comedian, I know the difference between being laughed with and being laughed at. Moldova’s Eurovision performers didn’t, and they obliterated Estonia. Let’s learn from it. Besides, if Matt Damon was willing to appear in Eurotrip, he’s obviously willing to appear in anything.